Vang Vieng has the possibility to be one of the most breathtaking destinations on your Southeast Asia itinerary. On the flip side, without the correct know-how, this place can land you in a cell.
The Laotian town is a beast that can only be tamed by those with the correct know-how. Harnessing the information brought to you by this survival guide will make sure you're riding, rather than chasing the dragon.
Do check your luggage
Before you even arrive in Vang Vieng there are steps that are crucial to avoid. Unless you're trying so hard to be an idiosyncratic backpacker that you are actively making things hard for yourself, you will be travelling to Vang Vieng from northern Luang Prabang or southern Vientiane. By far the fastest, comfiest and cheapest way to do so is by taking the Lao-China railway. The railway was brought to fruition in 2021, yet despite its modernity is a minefield for restricted items and possible fines. Drugs, weapons and chemicals are the obvious culprits that should go without explanation but the airport style security you endure before hopping on the train even picks up on the likes of aerosols and vapes. A fellow traveller of mine was fined 2 million kip (pound 74.98) for carrying a disposable vape through security. A simple check of the regulations would have made avoiding this easy but all too many backpackers don’t bother: make sure you aren’t one of them!
Do book a guest house
Everyone goes to Nana Backpacker Hostel aka Nana’s. Don’t go to Nana’s. Don’t fall into the trap of going somewhere just because it's popular. I stayed at Molina Bungalows and for half the price of a single bed in a dorm at Nana’s, was provided a double bed in an ensuite private room. Similar guest houses can be found all over the city and, in this case particularly, if you're worried about missing out on the social aspects that a party hostel provides, Nana’s serves free vodka and whisky between 8pm and 10pm every night and they don’t check whether you are staying there or not. You're welcome.
do be active
Vang Vieng being the cheapest place in the world to paramotor or take a hot air balloon ride is what marks it on the Laos map. While this is something that probably deserves its own blog entirely, it is not the only thing to do here. The plethora of outdoor activities turns Vang Vieng from a one day stopover to a week's stay. Stay active and don’t miss out on kayaking down the Mekong, hiking up Nam Xay Viewpoint and swimming in each lagoon.
don't hire a moped
Unfortunately the activities listed above, and many others, are a considerable amount further than walking distance away from where you'll be staying. Unless you’re somehow a backpacker without a tight budget who’s happy to pay for a tuk tuk driver to act as your personal chauffeur for the day, it would make sense for you to drive yourself. For many backpackers this usually means hiring a moped; I will now take the time to warn you against this. Like most of Southeast Asia’s roads, Vang Vieng’s are full of potholes, but what makes them particularly dangerous is the gravel they are made from. Even experienced drivers are at the mercy of the road when traversing gravel, as skidding becomes inevitable and with it, injury. However, it's not all bad, as there is a much better alternative: hiring a dune buggy. For a group of four a buggy is just £12 per day each and with a roof, huge tires and obviously the added benefit of 4 wheels, is much safer than a moped. Hiring one acts as an activity in itself and, trust me, the novelty won’t wear off. Just beware that you will come across lots of obstructions, mostly in the form of: chickens, old women, dogs and most importantly cows, who act like 16-year-old saggy-panted chavs when it comes to moving out of the way.
don't tipsy tube
Without wanting to come across as a bore, this is a tip advocated by most people with first-hand tubing experience. Although you may have loved Pai’s piss up, this will not lead to the same result. Rather than coming away slaughtered with a new group of mates, you’ll end up with a bruised arse and tired arms without the amount of alcohol in your stomach to overlook it. With rumors that some sessions only involve one bar stop on a 4 hour journey along an agonisingly slow-moving section of the Mekong, this is definitely one to miss. The river is far too shallow, so much so that, on my kayaking excursion, I crossed many people walking down the river with ring in arm in attempts to avoid scraping rocks. We also crossed many lonely individuals who had reached the point of pleading to be dragged along by our kayaks just to have the experience over with. If you still crave the feeling of being sat in a ring, then tubing through Tham Nam cave might be more satisfactory, as it provides the beauty without the beating.
don't submit to the nightlife
This is really where we supply the meat to the bones of this survival guide. Despite the profusion of bars, from Irish to Chinese techno, everyone and their mother ends up in either Full Moon or Jaidee’s. Not being one to speculate but this is most likely due to the ‘Happy Menus’ that feature in both bars. To put it bluntly this means that, should you wish it, anything is on offer. Despite the ease of accessibility I can confirm that ordering and consuming anything from these ‘Happy Menus’ is still illegal in Laos. These bars just act as loopholes where, in the establishment, consuming anything is, rather than legal, simply overlooked. With no desire to condone such actions, if you still wish to partake, make sure it is in the bar you have ordered from and there alone. Undercover police hang around in Vang Vieng waiting to catch tourists who wrongly assume that because they bought it in a bar, they are free to take it anywhere. On a regular basis, hostels are raided and fines of up to and sometimes beyond £300 are dished out unremorsefully, so if you are spliff inclined, make sure you keep it in these bars. Moreover, don’t do anything you aren’t comfortable with. To many, going into a bar and getting anything you want is a novelty, but unlike the substances themselves, the consequences should not be taken lightly. Do enjoy Vang Vieng’s nightlife, as it is the best in Laos, but don’t do anything you aren’t comfortable with.
Don't miss out on the sandwiches
Vang Vieng has a large choice of Western and Lao restaurants with honourable mentions going to Napolitan Pizza and Green Restaurant. The crown of Vang Vieng’s best food however, is rightfully bestowed upon the head of every sandwich lady whose stall lines the street of this divisive little town. Prepared on a hot plate on-the-spot, these ladies will provide you a bahn mi style sandwich, full of your choice of meats, vegetables, cheeses and sauces for less than £2. These make for the best breakfast, lunch, tea and drunk snack: you can’t survive Vang Vieng without them.
Vang Vieng is an amazing place with unlimited opportunities, probably too many if you ask me. If you traverse it correctly though, this little town can become one of the most exciting stops on your Southeast Asia journey.